The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build

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  #941  
Old 07-29-2014, 11:57 AM
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For the steering column mount; I'd just try some bolts until I found what fit. I don't remember what they are, or if the early 2nd gens were still the same as later that may be different. I just dig through my bolt bins until I figure the thread, and size, then grab some the length I need.
Are you trying to make the grounds exactly like factory? Or just so they work well? I run the main battery cable to the block. Then from the block I run another heavy cable to the frame from under the same bolt. I also run a smaller ground from the frame to the firewall to connect the subframe to the body. That will ensure there's no resistance anywhere that may cause feedback through turn signals, etc.
 

Last edited by 1971BB427; 07-29-2014 at 12:01 PM.
  #942  
Old 07-29-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
I bought two 10-32 heim ends, and a short piece of 3/16" aluminum rod from the hardware store. Used my tubing bender to bend an offset in the rod to attach it to the small hole on the carburetor linkage, and threaded both ends for 10-32 after cutting it to length. The rod ends were $2. ea. at QS Components with free shipping. So the whole thing was less than $10. QS is in Muncie, In., so you could get them pretty fast.
Rockkrawler 4 link kit, bearing, heim joints, heims, joint, jam nut, supply, rod ends
You can see the rod in this picture, and where it hooks to the bottom of the linkage:
Sorry to jump in between the conversation - the picture shows the black round bars from the bulkhead to the front frame chassis. This for strength. Can you please explain more on this how you did it? And is there any doublers attached to the bulkhead where the attachment is?

Thanks
 
  #943  
Old 07-29-2014, 08:32 PM
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The sole reason why I was asking about the size of those mounting bolts was that I had already gone through ALL of my supply and still couldn't find the correct size to fit on the steering column. I was able to go and buy a bunch more bulk bolts/nuts today and finally found the right size. It's mounted now, nice and tight.
I was also able to find a good spot for the trans cooler today and got that all mounted and the lines routed and connected to everything. Had to route the return line around the other side of the engine, up and over the top of the trans because of the ports on the cooler being on opposite ends. It worked out good and looks pretty good to me! Got the fan mounted on the radiator now also, and that's in there and connected. Tomorrow I'm going to run the sender wire from the trans temp manifold inside, mount the gauge in the console and finish that all up. I have to get the two micro switches mounted on the shifter for reverse/neutral safety and can then get the console back in there. It's looking like the end of the month might be a few days short of my ultimate goal but I am getting seriously close at least. New goal is by the end of next week and if the oil, trans fluid, muffler clamps and wire/connectors get here in time it should be a realistic goal. All in all it feels good to be getting so close. Here's a few pics of the trans cooler install.
 
Attached Thumbnails The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build-wp_20140729_21_00_49_pro.jpg   The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build-wp_20140729_21_02_57_pro.jpg   The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build-wp_20140729_21_02_35_pro.jpg   The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build-wp_20140729_16_15_20_pro.jpg   The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build-wp_20140729_20_55_01_pro.jpg  

  #944  
Old 07-30-2014, 09:31 AM
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The car is really looking fantastic! Nice detail work!
 
  #945  
Old 07-30-2014, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by clacia
Sorry to jump in between the conversation - the picture shows the black round bars from the bulkhead to the front frame chassis. This for strength. Can you please explain more on this how you did it? And is there any doublers attached to the bulkhead where the attachment is?

Thanks
Yes, the tube braces from firewall to frame are to make the car more ridged. Since I have no inner sheetmetal, and the frontend tilts, there are just frame stubs hanging out there, and they needed more bracing. I have 4"x4" plates inside the firewall that I bolted in with large washers. Then the braces are welded to the plate and firewall, and the other end welded to the frame. I also have a 6 point roll cage that ties into the firewall, floor pan, and trunk area, to further stiffen the chassis up. Underneath I have added 1"x3" heavy box tubing to the stock frame rails up front. Then subframe connectors welded to that, and tubing from connectors out to the rockers. The subframe connectors are bolted and welded to the rear frame sections. Lots of extra weight, but I needed it all to feel comfortable putting the BBC in the early Falcon.
The whole build of this car is covered in the project section here on Camaro Forums: https://camaroforums.com/forum/proje...project-73212/
 

Last edited by 1971BB427; 07-30-2014 at 09:39 AM.
  #946  
Old 07-30-2014, 12:01 PM
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Appreciate the comments Vall, I had been concerned for a long time about that trans cooler and where it was going to go. Didn't like having to wait so long to find out if it was going to fit somewhere up front and if the hoses that were already made were long enough. Ended up having to take one apart and shorten it but that was no big issue. I think it will work well right up in front of the radiator like that, I used some thick chrome spacers to raise it up a bit so the air/wind can get to it also when I'm driving. I'm getting the wiring done today for the temp sender and the gauge installation in the console. Hoping the micro switches aren't any trouble for the shifter so I can have the console back in and ready by the end of the day. More pics to follow...hopefully!
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:48 PM
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How difficult is it to remove the heat/air vents in the dash? I'm asking this before I really have had a chance to look into how they're mounted in the dash, apologies. My thoughts are, since I'll only ever use the defrost/top dash vents when the heater is turned on that I could use the dash vent under the wiper switch for a couple of switches as well as the center dash vents (2 side by side) for the actual stereo when that gets installed. I'd like to use the stock radio location for other switches and will make my own panel to mount over the hole where the stereo went. I'm just curious how easy/difficult the vents are to remove from the dash, and if the dash would need to be removed to do so? Insight would be very much appreciated if anyone has removed the vents before. Thanks in advance.


No pics to post today, didn't get much done after all. Couple issues came up and I ended up taking the front of my Cadillac apart today. Had to fix an axle shaft that I apparently didn't get all the way seated into the trans the first time. Got it fixed so I guess I'll post a pic of the Cadillac instead? Hoping for an early start at it tomorrow if I feel well enough and would love to get a bunch of wiring done.
 
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  #948  
Old 07-31-2014, 09:32 PM
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Man, the wiring is a MESS under this dash! Looks like I'll be digging the factory wiring diagrams back out again. At one point a couple years back I pretty much had the upper dash/column and instrument panel diagrams memorized. Remember all the problems with the alternator/voltage I was having? Just wish I knew what the PO(s) were trying to accomplish with some of this stuff under the dash...


I think I'm going to throw the inner fenders on the Camaro, get the battery ready, install the bulkhead connector and get the wires on the starter. I'm thinking it would probably be a good idea to check and make sure things are operational as I install them. I'm adding too many things to not check as I go. Hopefully my .110 connectors will get here tomorrow so I can finish up these push button switches and start getting things hooked up. MAN am I ready to get this Camaro going!
 
  #949  
Old 08-01-2014, 09:11 AM
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Nothing worse than wiring hacked up by PO's! I've had cars that people hacked into the wiring, and often it looks like they just kept cutting wires in an attempt to find 12v. power. I doubt those people own a 12v. test light, or would know how to read a diagram to figure out where to get power!
I went through the same thing recently on my buddy's '69 Nova. It wasn't running when he bought it, and had a new alternator on it. Seller said it didn't charge, and it would run off the battery, but we never got it started at the time. I started tracing the maze of large red wires, and found NONE of them hooked to the alternator! The alternator was turning with the engine running, and not connected to get charge to the battery!
Then there was the 10 miles of extra wires, and relays added for no apparent reason? Once I gutted everything that wasn't factory, and got the starter and alternator hooked up, it ran and charged. I finally discovered the original problem that made the PO do crazy stuff was some bad connections at the bulkhead connector. We decided to not replace the bulkhead connector, and instead wired a 40a. relay that is turned on with the ignition, and feeds a small 8 circuit fuse block, so we could wire the MSD, line lock, and other new components from a separate fuse block.
 
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:21 PM
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I've already gotten most all of the "extra" wires removed from under the dash, did that a couple years ago. What I've mostly got left is all the random connectors that used to have wires coming from them. Gotta love having a butt connector with nothing coming out of one end hanging off of almost every wire plugging into the front of the fuse box. I'm getting it, slowly, but it'll get cleaned up eventually. Wish I had more time right now to get the dash removed and redo the wiring but that'll happen when I do the interior. Having the seats out now really makes me wish I was tearing the interior out along with them! Gotta prioritize, and driving the Camaro trumps all currently.


OK, couple questions about wiring. Wish there were easier ways to get these questions answered than trying to explain it but I have to at least try!


1. The neutral safety wires, 2 purple wires (one with a white stripe) in a connector. I'm trying to get the micro switch on the shifter hooked up properly and can't figure out which of these purple wires is the power side? I thought it was the one with the white stripe but now think it's the solid purple one, can anyone help with this? This is keeping me from getting the console put back in and shifter finished.


2. Red wire from the starter to the bulkhead connector - I am installing a distribution block somewhere on the firewall to have access to power and to clean up some of these old raggedy wires. What I'm wondering is can I just run the wire to the bulkhead from the distribution block instead of the starter? I will run a piece of 8g from the starter to the distribution block. Still going to run the purple wire to the starter. In the pic, the wires that have the clamp on them used to have the wires going to the alternator in there also but I removed those a while back when I went to a 1 wire alt.


3. The other red wire in the pic with the big connector on it connects the blower feed from the blower relay and I'd like to just run the wire from the blower relay to the distribution block also since it'll be mounted right above it. This would get rid of those two wires that are in pretty rough shape and clean things up. I can't see why this wouldn't work but wanted to check and make sure first.
 
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Last edited by 78 on my plate; 08-01-2014 at 06:24 PM.


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