I know what are you saying about installing and removing the frame twice but the plan is to assemble the car complete on wheels now (doors, front end, hood and trunk) and make the necessary repairs.

After the repairs are done and the car is ready for paint, then I will disassemble the car again put it on the trolley I made and start the work on the front frame. This includes blasting the frame, spray it gloss black, install the ride tech coil overs and the brakes, sway bar etc etc. In the mean time while I am working on the frame, the spray guy will start to work on the body where the body will be installed on his rotating frame.

The panels will be mocked up for spraying only perhaps the metallic needs to be sprayed all at once. Once the car is all painted, then back to my garage and mate the front frame to the car and start to align every thing together.


This is the beat all I can think of right now. If there are better alternatives, please share them with me. This is the first time I am facing these steps.

 

If it's going together more than once, then don't worry about aligning the subframe the first time.

 

Ok. I read an article which tells you that there are 2 inspecting holes in the front of the subframe next to the front mounting bushings below the bulk head. The size of these holes are approx 5/8". I made 2 pins of 5/8" diameter and 3 " long and will use them as a trial.

I am doing 2 go jacks for the front so that I can adjust left or right.

see this vedio at around 2.00 minute

 

That's a great video, and some great tips for aligning the subframe, based on knowing the subframe is perfect. If by chance the car has ever been in a wreck, then the alignment procedure will simply line up the holes, but it wont be square. Too late now, but most people take measurements prior to disassembly, so they can put it back the same way.
What I would do at this point is do the same measurements they showed from the center hole on the crossmember to the alignment holes on each frame rail, before putting it under the car. If it all measures equal on both sides, then you know your subframe is still square, and you can proceed with doing it as the video shows.

 

Yes, great video. My sub frame looks intact. I assume that if the car was suffered from a wrack, it will show somewhere - like ripples in the body maybe or underneath the car? So far nothing looks like that on the body. From a general inspection on the frame, it looks good as well. Mind you, I still need to have a detailed inspection on the subframe when it is the correct time for it.

Unfortunately I did not know about having the dimensions before removing the front subframe. I missed that good part!!

I will check the dimensions as you highlighted from the centre of the cross member. At least I will have a good starting point. Looks pretty straight forward.

Somewhere in a thread I read that having poly bushings for the subframe are a compromise between the normal rubber and solid. I have ordered the normal rubber kit as that time. What I will do is this, I will use these rubber once for the mock up and then I will order the poly bushings from Summit later on. I think the rubber bushings and the poly bushings should have the same height.

 

The rubber and poly will not react the same, nor have the exact same height. But probably close enough. The poly will stiffen up the chassis a bit, and make it feel better under extreme handling situations. Be sure to get extra bushing lube for the poly, as they don't give you enough with the kits. A small extra cup of around 4 oz. will go a long way, and is cheap from Summit in their brand. Don't be afraid to over lube the poly bushings when assembling!

 

Good advise, thanks for that. Will add it to my list from summit.

 

Hello all, rain and cold here, and no time to work on the 78 camaro. I had some work to carry out on my 85 camaro.

I have a question to ask regarding my 78 camaro maybe someone can explain it to me. Will it be possible to calculate how much km/hr the camaro will be doing when I am on the third (final) gear with the information known below? I need to know how to calculate it if possible.

Rear tyres dimension:- 295/35/19 = 26.13 inch diameter tyre
Transmission:- TH400
Rear end:- Ford 9" with ratio 3.55
RPM:- 2000 (cruising speed)

Thank you

 

Yes, there is a calculator, but it works by entering tire diameter, gear ratio, and MPH. So using your rpm, I entered MPH until I got to 43 mph and was at 2015 rpm's. So with the conversion you'll be going 69 kph at 2000 rpm's.
Here's the calculator:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html

 

Thanks for the information. Really works well - That is the speed range and RPM I am looking at normal driving around the island.

What I am concerned is about the maximum speed. The calculations used will be that at approx 5500 engine RPM the max speed will be of 118MPH. Is this lcorrect? Is this low for a 572 or a normal speed.