Sorry, I mixed the thing up!! CPP show stopper is equipped with their NEW MCPV-1 which combines the master cylinder and double adjustable proportioning valve and removable metering valve :- Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks

I don't think that I would need an external prop valve since the CPP MCPV has its own adjustable one?

 

IMHO way over complicated. You basically set the system pressure then set the rear pressure from that. I agree with Val totally that buying a prop vavle is a poor idea. My set up will have a Wilwood master with a prop valve I can adjust without tools. Fancy no doubt but tough to dial in I bet. A simple **** for me that can be ran inside the cockpit to get it perfect while driving. Not a stop adjust try again stop and tweek somemore deal.

 

Regardless of the brand, or how many axles have disc brakes, most systems will only need one prop valve, and it should usually be on the line to the rear brakes. This allows the rear brake pressure to be adjusted to reduce the braking effect until the car stops straight, and doesn't lock up the rear before the front.
Like Damon, I always use a simple prop valve that has an adjustable ****. Once I get the brakes dialed in, I never touch the **** again. I mount mine under the car on a frame rail, as I like them out of sight, and unavailable to anyone who might like to give it a turn if my hood is open and I'm not around.
I think some of these brake companies, and suppliers like to make exotic systems that are too complicated, just so they can either extract more money, or dazzle us with their system.

 

Ok Val and Damon, so if I do not use the stock combination valve (or the after market combination valve) then I think that the CPP MCPV will be enough for setting the maximum pressure and the Balance between the front and rear?

Or I can have a separate variable prop valve for the rear and leave the prop valve in the CPP MC to maximum balance?

This is how the CPP MCPV is adjusted:-

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...CPV1adjust.pdf

 

No reason to add another prop valve, unless you have too much money and just need to spend it. The master with prop valve built in is fine, and can be adjusted once it's on the car and you see how it brakes. I always start with no reduced pressure, and do some hard stops in a parking lot. Then adjust until the rear doesn't lock up first.
It's going to be a test and adjust thing, so you want a prop valve that's easily adjustable, and accessible. I don't see anything showing where the adjustment is, but the description of how to adjust it tells me it must be easy to get to.

 

I think it has adjustment like a typical hydaulic flow control Val. The two ports look like they have set screws in them and the lines come out on the inside. I could be wrong but thats what it looks like to me.

My personal preferance on the prop valve are like this. The Wilwood simple **** with one in and one out is to me the easiest set up. The frame rail is a good spot but I am thinking more like running mine up through the floor pan next to the drivers seat so it can be tweeked on the fly. But remember I intend to race my car autocross style and this seems like I could add or remove brake as needed. I have also seent he same one mounted under the master and the **** runs through the fire wall to the dash. I believe Mary Pozzi has hers this way. Or at least she put me onto it.

Next is the Wilwood actual prop valve with the same **** but has two ins and two outs like stock. Still has the same **** but it mounts to the stock bracket.

Plain old ball valve and some real cahones to use it!

 

For most driving I can't see a reason I'd want to change the adjustment once it's set. I'd sure want it mounted somewhere that it wouldn't get bumped or turned if it was inside the car, as they turn so easily.

 

I'm thinking next top the seat along the rocker. I may be wrong here but I'm going to give it a shot. I agree set and forget on the street but after a few laps the brakes can fade.

 

But wont they fade all around? Why would changing the front/rear ratio bring back the brakes? I'd probably mount it under the front edge of the seat right where I could reach down and touch it.

 

Thats about where I was thinking. The bias adjustment is just a tuning aid really. Fronts will fade faster than rears. In my head I see that as causing the rears to lock sooner because I would be using more force on the pedal than normal to stop.

Ever see these? They are designed so the driver doesnt have to look at the ****.