Take a look at the two large wires. One is going to your interior ignition switch, and the other should be going to your "batt." terminal on the alternator. The one that lands on the ignition switch should read 12v. constant hot, as long as the battery is hooked up. When you turn the ignition switch on, you should read 12v. out with the key on.
Here's a diagram that will help you figure out which terminals have power at what points. You'll need either a meter, or at least a 12v. test lamp to check:


You might also need to check or replace the neutral safety switch, if the ignition switch checks OK. Or maybe both may have issues.

 

Thanks for the input! So I replaced the Ignition switch and still nothing when I turn the key... This is getting really frustrating. Can someone verify what the wiring on the starter should be? I know its only a couple wires and a batt cable but I want to make sure that isn't my issue. I ordered a NSS and that will be in Tuesday, so I will get that replaced too...

 

Battery terminal, goes without saying. The S (start) terminal is where the purple/white stripe wire from the ignition switch goes to. The R terminal outputs 12 volts only while you are cranking the starter. This was used back in the points ignition days when the coil ran off a resistance wire, and received less than 10 volts. While cranking the starter, the R bypass wire to the coil would give it a momentary shot of 12 volts so the engine would be sure to start. You have electronic ignition that runs off of 12 volts (no resistor wire), so your car doesn't have this setup. But, I see in a previous picture that you have a cable connected to that R terminal, where does it go to?

 

Camaro 69- Thanks for the response. I am not sure where the wire goes that is on the R terminal. I only placed it back on there bc that is where the PO had it and it used to start with the push button. Everything is all in looms so it is very difficult to see exactly where the wire is going.. I'm thinking swap that other wire over to the S terminal and try my luck. I have 3 wires that run to the starter though (other than bat cable) would they all go to the S terminal or would any need to be on the batt post for any reason? I only ask bc again the PO had 2 of the wires on the batt terminal when he had the push button. Thanks! I will swap the wires around tomorrow and see where we stand!

 

When the solenoid activates, a contact disc momentarily connects the S and R terminals together. Whatever wire is connected to the R terminal is only getting power when trying to start the engine. Can't think of what the guy would have put on there, and it's sometimes difficult in person to decipher what some other electrical "jeenyus" did, let alone over the internet where we can't physically trace wires. There should be one wire (purple) on the S terminal, don't know where the other one(s) are going to. Whatever else is on the S & R terminals needs to be removed, traced and figured out. The previous owner either installed the push button because he thought it was cool, or because he couldn't figure how to fix wiring the right way. I'm starting to think it was the latter. Before connecting odd and end wires alternate places, look at a schematic, or show them here (listing colors) so that you can trace them back to the source, which could prevent toasting something you don't want to.

 

Camaro 69- Thanks again for the input. I will start to chase wires, guess its time to chase wires and remove looms haha. Everything is covered in 30 yrs of road grime and looks like wires have been spliced and replaced because the wires are multi colored... I will report back what I find tonight when football is done and kids are in bed.

Yea the guy I bought it from was a good ole shade tree mechanic and he wasn't very good at any of it (he said he replaced a floor board, looked under it and it is the thin sheet metal bottom from an old VCR!!!) Got quite a discount for that lie haha.

 

I hope you're not just replacing parts without using a test light, or meter to determine if the components are bad. A test light can be purchased for as little as $2 from Harbor Freight, and they give meters away with any purchase made. So no reason to replace parts without checking them first. The ignition switch can sometimes be a simple adjustment on the mount. If the switch is good or bad, either way it wont work if the adjustment is not correct, and it's not making contact. Only a test lamp or meter will tell if the power is going in and going out.

 

The ignition switch was bad, I got zero power from it no matter key placement, confirmed with a volt meter and a 12V test light... Like I've said I am almost positive its just a jacked up wiring job from the PO. I am a Ford guy I can tear apart and re-assemble a 69 Mustang electrical system (bc Ive done it numerous times) from memory as to what the wire colors but i am very unfamiliar with classic chevy's that is why i am asking for help. Thanks

 

Just wanted to make sure you checked it after removal to ensure it wasn't just out of adjustment. I've had them not show power through them, and then loosened the mounting screws, and adjusted them, and they worked fine.

 

from where you are now i would chase the solenoid(purple and white stripe) from the switch to the starter and replace where it went bad (usually people crush it into the bell housing when doing tranny stuff) and see where it is damaged and run out a new line the the starter