I'm a bit of a novice with this stuff so bear with me.
I just got this '68 and trying to get it running. The issue is that I can get the engine started but need to feed it gas for it to stay running.
Here is the video Couple of things to note:
I took the carb apart and cleaned it but it's pretty much behaving the same way
The electric choke is not hooked up but I manually opened it. Note that at the end of the video I closed it and it smoked up a bit.

Any suggestions?

 

1. Open throttle to WOT and turn choke cap to close the choke plate and this will also set the fast idle cam on pass side.
You might even screw in fast idle screw just in case. Cap shows you a reference place to start.
2. hook up electric choke - power lead form IGN post of fuse box, other lead to vac cover screw for ground completing the circuit.
3. Engine should start and when it does, loosen choke cap screws and turn cap in direction needed - instructions on cap LEAN CW/RICH CCW.

As engine runs and choke heats up - choke plate opens - hit throttle and carb will go to curb idle.
Next morning, retest and make adjustments of choke lean/rich to keep engine running.
Holley has instructions for this on their site.

 

Thank's Everett, I'll try that.

 

One thing you didn't mention is whether the engine still acts like this once it's warmed up or not? Does it level out and run/idle smooth with a hot engine and open choke?

 

Good question, I've not run it long enough to know. If I were to guess (based on simply no improvement after getting a little warmer) I'd say no, that it would likely not idle even when hot. When I bought it, the seller drove it up on the trailer but it was stalling out for a while as he was trying to get it up, so this also leads me to believe it would not idle even when warm (however I don't know the position of the choke as he was doing this).

Also, seeing any smoke come from the engine scares the crap out of me so I stopped f'ing with it.

 

That "smoke" coming back out the carb is atomized fuel blowing back, but it shouldn't be doing that. This, along with the way the engine shakes, has me thinking other possibilities like... ignition timing is off, plug wires are crossed, or a poor valve lash adjustment. What is the history of this engine? Did the owner slap the car together and never got it running right, or was it running and he messed with something?
Start with the basics; trace the plug wires back to the distributor cap, firing order (clockwise looking down at cap) is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Cylinder #'s, front to back; drivers side: 1-3-5-7, passenger side: 2-4-6-8.
Also check the timing.
Does your Holley have sight plugs on the passenger side of the bowls? Remove one at a time and see if fuel dribbles out, it should. If you can't see any, your float bowl setting is too low.

 

The History of this Car (as I know/assume it)
I believe that in 2003 or so, it was involved in a minor accident (front end is a little dinged up, grill and left headlight busted up but nothing too severe). Since then, it has not been on the road. So, I suspect it has been sitting idle for a good 10 years (the owner may have tinkered with it during this time but I really don't know for sure)
But, as far as I know, it was working right before being parked.

I did look at the plug wires and they are routed correctly. I am going to check the plugs tonight to see if they are all firing.

Regarding the ignition timing. It looks like you need a timing light to check that correct? Or could I simply mark the current position, adjust the timing to see if it has any affect?

Valve lash adjustment: In looking into this, it looks above my ability (unless you guys encouraged me otherwise).

Again, thanks so much for the help! I'll update as I test more.

 

Sitting for 10+ years, suspect the carb, bad gas (unless you drained/replaced what was in the tank), corrosion on the contacts under the distributor cap.
Start with cleaning the cap and rotor contacts, or replace them both if they look well used.
Then check the float levels, you could have a stuck needle & seat causing a dry bowl, a sunk float causing a flood, or neither but they're out of adjustment. With sitting as long as it has, a carb rebuild would be a good idea. I know you cleaned it out, but that's still not the same as a rebuild. When you cleaned the carb, was there a lot of sediment? You could have a clogged fuel filter.

 

I did actually rebuild the carb, not just clean it. It didn't appear to too gunked up but I don't think that the carb was sitting for all that time (I believe it was put on the car somewhat recently). I didn't observe any sediment. I have to move the car to more level ground to set the float (I couldn't figure out why the gas would pour out of the sight plug no matter how much I lowered the float until i realized the car is on a slope both rear to front and driver to passenger).

I did check all of the plugs with an inline spark tester and they were all firing (though one in particular seemed loose when I pulled off the wire). Is the distributor still in question? Either way I'll check it out and take a pic tomorrow.

Regarding old gas: after I rebuilt the carb, I tried to siphon the tank but couldn't seem to get anything out (gauge reads 1/4 tank but suspecting that's not working right). I added a bottle of that carb cleaner and fresh high octane gas.

I started it up tonight and it seemed to run smoother. I was able to keep it running but still did have to feed it (but it seemed more willing to stay alive if that makes any sense)

 

I checked the distributor cap and it looked pretty good. I gave it a once over just for the heck of it. No change.

BUT, let's talk vacuum stuff. Here is how all of the ports are configured: There is a hose that simply runs from the PCV port to the Power Brake port directly. Then, there is a smaller hose from the full manifold port which T's off to the distributor and another line that goes into the firewall that I haven't tracked any further but assume it runs to the transmission.

I suspect this is a quick fix to a problem while the previous owner waited for a part or something, or it could be completely legit... my brain is about to explode with all this information i've been taking in!!!