Mono Leaf Spring Question

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  #11  
Old 10-17-2016, 12:16 PM
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Reason for using a mono-leaf spring is less unsprung weight.
As Super Mod suggests, use a slapper bar hitting the front spring eye, i.e., Moroso 2101.
I used mono & 2101's for a 11.8X's
 
  #12  
Old 10-17-2016, 07:27 PM
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Yeah. My original thought was to just step up to a multi pack spring. Since I'm looking for a good 8.5" 10 bolt (would really love a 12 bolt) but since I'm changing a few things on the suspension anyway, why not the springs? I was just trying to stay in a budget.


And the caltrac bars look pretty good with the way they mount. No stress point on the bottom of the springs.


Thanks guys. Guess I need to save a few more bucks.
 
  #13  
Old 10-17-2016, 08:45 PM
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I did not think a used multi leaf setup was that much? So many guys upgrading to a link system surly they can be found on the cheap. Nova's fit also? I think if you call a leaf spring re-arc place they would has stuff they would sell you.
 
  #14  
Old 10-18-2016, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
Stay away from those crappy clamp on slapper bars, they put stress on the leaf springs in front and back of where they mount to the axle. Use the bars that incorporates a lower spring plate, which attaches them directly to the axle housing.
Point taken. It's what I could afford while I was a poor student, and they did in fact work very well, but he's looking at more HP than I had. The article is still relevant as to the principal of how they work.

I'll have to scan the article here, I took 2nd place in the second Super Chevy Sunday drag race in 1982 I think?? I still have the original magazine here.

I liked the slapper bars because they don't affect ride quality at all. I was afraid that the ones that actually bolt on, like ladder bars would affect ride quality.
 
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:52 AM
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Lots of good info here guys. Yeah, I used the old slapper bars on a 73 RS/LT Camaro years ago. It was a 450 small block (358ci) and the first set was crap, because it didn't line up with the spring eye, but several inches back. A better set was the perfect length and worked rather well.
On this car I was trying to NOT go all G Machine or Pro Touring for 2 reasons. 1. my budget and 2. my budget. Lol. My wife doesn't like the "extreme slammed" look (or ride) I did a '91 S-10 Blazer a while back that was pretty slammed. I liked it, and I drove it daily, but it was just to keep my hands working during a move.
I'm trying to be "thrifty" on the rear end thing. Though there are some fresh, nicely set up 12 bolts out there for $2500 you can just bolt right in. Maybe it's time to start looking that way. New 12 bolt with multi pack set up. I'm still interested in the Caltracs traction bar set up. So maybe I'll just start saving a little more, of sell a few things I have around that I've been holding on to.
Thanks again guys. I guess since I went and bought the CPP big brake kit and it's over the top (chrome calipers, drilled & slotted rotors) that I should just keep stepping it up one more step as I go.
 
  #16  
Old 10-18-2016, 09:39 PM
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You're exactly right. The bars I bought were about 3" short of the "spring eye" as you called it. We welded an extension onto it lining it up properly, and they worked very well.

The car was a high 11's / low 12's in the 1/4 mile and I never had any problems with the slapper bars. However, I could see where you'd want to go with the more heavy duty set with a true high HP engine, maybe even ladder bars.
 
  #17  
Old 11-23-2016, 01:59 AM
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Well, I picked up a pretty nice 8.5" 10 bolt from a guy going with a 9" & 4 link set up. I also picked up a rebuilt T350 trans from another guy going to a 4 speed set up. My lucky day. LOL. I'm going to just get a multi spring set up - hoping to find a drop spring set up for the rear. Just how low is too low on the front end? I've got 2" drop spindles and the tubular control arms look to be another 1"-2" drop pocket. Just want to know if 4" is too low? I want to tuck the top of the tire just under the top of the wheel well for the stance.
 
  #18  
Old 05-03-2017, 10:31 PM
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When I redid my 68 it originally had mono springs but I went with a multi pack and some slappers that bolted onto the lower part of the axle. Even though I built a solid 10" with an auto locker it will do for now, upgrading the rearend as you find a 12" for a good price is the easy part lol. I did a 2" drop in the front and a 1 1/2 in the rear with the Hotchkis springs.
 
  #19  
Old 05-04-2017, 11:04 AM
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Have you tried looking for a 8.5 10 bolt rear end out of a 1973-4 Nova or any of its X-body cousins. Its just as strong as a 12 bolt and are easier to find.And you can use multi leaf springs for your car without modification.
 
  #20  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:21 PM
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Hi Zspoiler,
Not sure whom you were directing that question to? I did pick up a '74 Nova 8.5" 10 bolt rear end. Going to drop it off this week for the full rebuild. Posi, gears, axles, bearings and seals and any gaskets. I have an opportunity to get it once disassembled and have it blasted and either painted or powder coated. I'm trying to see if I want to mess with it, or just clean & spray it with new frame paint.
Now I just need my lowered leaf springs and I'll be set. Well almost. =)
 


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