Oil sensor light
#1
Oil sensor light
My oil sensor keeps flickering when I come to a complete stop. I have checked the oil level and it fine. I have uninstalled the sensor and cleaned it, and the connection. Is that a sign that it needs to be replaced?
Thanks
Jerry
Thanks
Jerry
#2
Could be a bad sending unit, but a severe drop in pressure at idle can also mean your engine is badly worn and bearing clearances are excessive. That's one reason why I don't like idiot lights vs a gauge, they tend to warn you of problems after it's too late. A mechanical oil pressure gauge will tell you right off the condition of the engine. Might as well try replacing the sending unit, and keep your fingers crossed.
#3
Could be sensor as suggested, also could be idle rpm set too low.
Harbor Freight sells a $10 mechanical gauge, and if decided to keep gauge, you can get a 'Y' adapter for keeping light and gauge hook-up.
Harbor Freight sells a $10 mechanical gauge, and if decided to keep gauge, you can get a 'Y' adapter for keeping light and gauge hook-up.
#5
Time of install is the major item.
You can get a singular gauge, two gauge set, usually pressure and temperature, and three gauge set pressure, temp, and voltage.
Older sets had an ammeter, but modern technology took over and voltmeter is replacing them.
Oil pressure is relative easy, remove OE sensor, install adapter, run oil line through a grommet in firewall, hook up oil line, start engine up, loosen fitting on back of gauge to bleed out air and tighten. Follow instructions accompanying gauge.
DO NOT KINK plastic line.
Choosing a gauge spot is the major key. Most panels will fit below the ashtray and you can use the same screws for mounting.
Gauge light can be connected to ACC spade on fuse box.
I get A/C 1/8 inch OD copper tubing and substitute the plastic line in kit.
Tubing has thinner wall thickness giving more ID and better gauge reaction.
You can get a singular gauge, two gauge set, usually pressure and temperature, and three gauge set pressure, temp, and voltage.
Older sets had an ammeter, but modern technology took over and voltmeter is replacing them.
Oil pressure is relative easy, remove OE sensor, install adapter, run oil line through a grommet in firewall, hook up oil line, start engine up, loosen fitting on back of gauge to bleed out air and tighten. Follow instructions accompanying gauge.
DO NOT KINK plastic line.
Choosing a gauge spot is the major key. Most panels will fit below the ashtray and you can use the same screws for mounting.
Gauge light can be connected to ACC spade on fuse box.
I get A/C 1/8 inch OD copper tubing and substitute the plastic line in kit.
Tubing has thinner wall thickness giving more ID and better gauge reaction.
#7
Yes that's way low. What is the pressure at with a cold engine, then when hot? At what rpm is your idle at, make sure idle isn't too low. Could be a worn engine with excessive bearing clearances. Could be a bad oil pump, or the pickup is leaking. Could be the oil filter. Could be the distributor isn't sealing well (the bottom part of the distributor housing completes an oil galley). I would start with changing the oil & filter, and going to a higher viscosity oil, like a straight 30 or 40 weight. Use a good name brand oil filter, but stay away from the Fram orange ones, they've had issues in the past.
#9
That is waaaay waay too low. Normally its 40-60 at idle for most engines anyhow. What does it do when you increase the engine speed?
#10
Still trying
So...I have changed the oil and moved up yo a heavier weight. I also replaced the oil sending unit. PSI is still low at idle and that's the only time the light still comes on.
Any other thoughts I can try before I'm forced to take it in?
Any other thoughts I can try before I'm forced to take it in?