battery drain problem
#21
Well, it's been a while on this subject - shows how often I have time to mess with this car. Since the last post on this thread, I have dealt with a cooling problem and got it resolved with help from this forum(re-cored the radiator). My son got me a numbers matching correct Rochester 4MV carb and I installed that recently. Also a few other minor items. Also during the time away, I just recently replaced the battery.
I took it out for a spin this morning. It's idling a bit high so I need to adjust that. The alternator light never came on and while running down the road, the console amp gauge is reading 5 amps - one notch off of zero. Then while driving about 60mph I turn on the headlights and heater fan full. The gauge goes to zero - back to 5amps when I turn everything off.
So, what should that gauge be reading when your running down the road? SHould it go to zero under load like that?
I took it out for a spin this morning. It's idling a bit high so I need to adjust that. The alternator light never came on and while running down the road, the console amp gauge is reading 5 amps - one notch off of zero. Then while driving about 60mph I turn on the headlights and heater fan full. The gauge goes to zero - back to 5amps when I turn everything off.
So, what should that gauge be reading when your running down the road? SHould it go to zero under load like that?
Last edited by santa6; 10-19-2014 at 01:35 PM.
#24
When running and battery is fully charged, the gauge should be at 0 or slightly on the + side. Right after starting, or when other loads are on the battery, the gauge will read heavier into the + side.
As long as the needle is on the + side, your charging system is working.
As long as the needle is on the + side, your charging system is working.
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