So I've read about the motor mount issues with some camaro's and I'm thinking i could have that issue, but want some more insight... Just doesn't seem like it's the motor mounts but i could be wrong... So here's what happens, Put car in Drive... and not every time, but sometimes it's like the pedal actual falls under my foot. It's not just when i stomp it, sometimes i'm barely giving it gas and it seriously drops to the floor like a ghost just hit the gas and it stays there for at least a second or more at full throttle and then completely let's up. I've replaced the throttle return spring, the one on the car was fairly loose, now i have it taught. i tried lubing up the mechanical gas pedal assembly but it's hard to get to. In neutral it doesn't seem to do it, if i'm in 3rd gear it doesn't do it, i can stomp on the pedal and nothing. It seems to happen the most when i'm in 1st or 2nd, and earlier i was at a stop light and went to hit the gas and barely touched it and it melted the tires in a turn of a busy intersection, i had to kill the engine for it to stop, started it back up and gave it some gas and it was perfectly fine.... most of the time it's got some tension in the pedal, but 1st gear especially it's like there's no force needed in the pedal and it will randomly drop to the floor, does seem to happen the most at a standstill. Could this be the motor mount issue? The engine was replaced an owner or two back, went from a 6 cylinder to a 350 V8, i looked at the motor mounts (what i could see under the car) and they don't look rubber and look in tact. please help, i had to pull over and sit for a minute after that happened, almost needed to change my pants

 

First and foremost this is not a mount issue necessarily. The throttle return spring needs to hook directly the carb linkage. Check that with the gas pedal disconnected the throttle returns every time. Check where your connecting and make sure no matter what happens the throttle return spring has a constant pressure to hold the throttle back with some pressure. At no point should the gas pedal ever drop to the floor and take control over the throttle. The car I purchased the suicide king before I had it thought a zip tie was sufficient to hold the throttle return spring. Unfortunately you have experienced the fear of wide open uncontrolled throttle. If nothing else take it to someone or have someone that knows how to hook up your particular throttle spring. I would tell you how to hook up a Holley, buy a return spring kit from summit and it hooks up easily to the lowest hole on the throttle linkage to the bracket in the kit that mounts to the carb stud rear driver side.. Most important thing is to test the spring returns the throttle no matter what when you lift your foot..

 

It very well could be a motor mount issue. If the mount is bad it may be allowing the engine to rise up too far and pulling on the throttle cable.

The easiest way to check a mount is to hold the brake hard, put the car in low gear and step on the gas. If the engine pops up more than an inch or 2 then the mount is probably bad.

If you can't see the engine from the drivers seat then have a friend watch from NEXT TO THE CAR, not in front of the car. We don't want anyone getting ran over..lol

You can check the other side by doing the same but having the car in reverse.

 

Ok so i found the original recall letter posted by Chevrolet and it is describing what is happening to a T. I have a crappy picture of my return spring, sorry i was taking a pic of the top of the carb, There's an "L" shaped bracket where the spring attaches to and when in park it always returns the throttle, it's only in gear at lows speeds, especially from a stop that the uncontrolled acceleration occurs...




BTW, Icecobra.... that is a beautiful engine.... took me a minute to pick my jaw up off the ground! one day i hope mine is that beautiful

 

If you think its a motor mount, jack up the car and look at the mount.. To interfere with throttle linkage I would guess all 3 mounts are broken, trans and engine as long as your in and dirty do all 3.. Also check to make sure your throttle linkage is not goobered up and hanging on something.. Verify all the little pins are in and your bushing is not bad on the linkage to carb side. I run a Lokar cable system and removed the straight metal piece in the linkage.. Make sure its not binding the linkage down behind the block where it goes in the firewall.. With your description of first or second gear is when it sticks, I would look for things binding up or falling loose.. The throttle return spring is suppose to be your fail safe.. I also would like to know is it an automatic or manual.. The shift linkage on an automatic might be hanging on something and pulling the throttle backwards...

 

it's an automatic TH350

 

All you need is one torn motor mount to make the mechanical linkage bind while the engine is under acceleration, the other motor mount and the trans mount will flex. And it's the drivers side mount that is the one likely to go, since engine torque is trying to lift the left side of the engine. Do a brake torque test as omr suggested, and watch for the drivers side of the engine to lift up. Since your throttle is sticking only while accelerating hard, I have a feeling that's what's going on. When replacing motor mounts, poly mounts are better as they have an interlock molded in, and can't separate like conventional rubber ones can.

 

So i believe i confirmed the motor mount issue last night. Got under the drivers die of the car and there's an obvious crack through the rubber portion of the mount that you can see. I went ahead and purchased the poly mounts that i believe are correct for the car. This car was originally a 6 cylinder and had a 350 v8 put in, are the mounts the same for both engines? Also, I don't have an engine lift, would this be a bad idea to try and do myself, or should i bring it to a shop to have them replace?

 

One sure way of checking for broken drvr side engine isolator is Post #3.
If mount is broken, drvr side of engine will raise up and fall down with 'clunk' when gas pedal is released.

Engine isolators are of two sizes - short and wide & narrow and tall
The frame mounts for a L6 & V8 are completely different style.

 

Distributor is about 1/4" to 1/2" off the firewall, and previous owner definitely dented the firewall in to fit it. I had to pull the cap off to raise the engine enough to access the driver side mounts.

Driver side mount after I pulled it off the car. Definitely separated and easily pulled apart.



installing new mount on drivers side, was a lot easier to access bolts on new mounts vs old mounts.

I read passenger side was easier to install, but the exhaust manifold hit the firewall when I lifted the engine. I had to remove the exhaust manifold to raise the engine enough to access the bottom bolt on the old motor mounts. Later had to take a trip to o'reilly for a new exhaust gasket because I ruined the one that was on there. I also had to remove the fuel pump to access the bolt holding the frame and motor mount together. Getting the fuel pump back on was by far the most time consuming because I didn't understand that there's a rod that pushes the fuel pump arm and I couldn't get the fuel pump back on, later realized I just needed to slide the rod up to get the arm underneath it.

Took the car for a drive and MAN it's a completely different animal and I feel so much more confident about pulling out places. I also tightened the throttle return spring up a bit and added the second throttle return spring as well to make sure it was plenty stiff, gas pedal feels way more firm.