I had many problems with my starters "back in the day" when I had my 67 with a street built engine. They all went away when I replaced it with a heavy duty truck SBC starter. If memory serves, they are longer?? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

You're saying the solenoid doesn't even click when you turn the key?

I also remember a lot of peeps would use a Ford remote solenoid mounted on the wheel well. This keeps it away from the heat.

Here is a link: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1393879949

I personally never did it, but I'm sure it would work well, as well as making it easier if you ever need to jump the starter again.

 

Yes "Coach" the car starts right up when cold each and every time ... after driving it for about a good 15-20 minutes getting her hot. the car wont turn or do anything its completely silent when you turn the key (with the exception of everything else radio lights etc).

No matter how hot when it does this it only takes me 2 seconds to get her running by opening the hood and sticking a flat nose to jump it ever so slightly .. just a bump not even turning it over at the starter just a bump tap. then i get back in the car after closing the hood and she starts right up as if it was nothing,,,

i have purchased a mr gasket heat sheild and will also replace the cables at the same time to rule out anything,

 

In my opinion they are and a lot of others that I know, never used them because they felt the same way.
All it is, is a piece of stainless steel that is "supposed" to reflect heat. You are only reflecting heat on the outside of the solenoid. The solenoid is not 360 degrees surrounded, so it still can get heat.
They also can be a pain to install.
I have never used a blanket, but from what I here, it's the same theory as the header wrap, you can trap moisture between things and start rusting or corroding.
This heat sink issue is nothing new to the Chevy motor and has been going on for years. There are a lot of different opinions and solutions to fixing it. For me, I have found the heat shield does not work, and was a waste of time but I have found that a heavier solenoid spring did help and the Ford remote solenoid kit definitely works.
If the shield works so good, how comes you don't see them at the track? You see more high torque mini starters and the Ford remote solenoids.

 

Probably because they lost their heat shields, lol. Both of those can be heat soak fixes, but the main purpose of a high torque starter is to easier turn over a high compression engine. I also have a hi torque starter and remote relay, no heat soak issues.
But instead of replacing the starter, try a remote solenoid as was suggested earlier. The issue is either heat expansion is causing the solenoid to stick, or the start wire is building up resistance and doesn't have enough juice to work it (as Mr 68 is great mentioned). Since the screwdriver trick works, the wiring would be suspect. A relay will give the starter a direct shot in the arm. Just for fun, when the starter acts up again, check with a volt meter at the S terminal when trying to start. Curious to see how much hot engine voltage you have there.

 

i appreciate the feedback from everyone ; and of course when i want to reproduce the problem in front of others she starts right up ...

i really feel its the hopt wire scenario as the battery is way charged and i have no power issues at all and she only does this when she is really really warmed up after driving hauling tail on the fwy etc ... runs like a champ and then you can shut her off and go to turn the key and get total silence... so the flat nose must bump it ... of course this is an after market 49.00 starter from auto zone ... i have heard stories from folks who have stated they have gone thru 5 starters before getting a good re manufactured ,auto zone starter ..

i bet if i took it off and took it in to get tested it would pass as there machine may not get the starter hot to reproduce the issue going on as it doesn't happen all the time ..

 

A simpler fix and less time to install, is a marine starter pushbutton switch.
Get a spool of 10 AWG and wire across solenoid battery post and S terminal and mount switch under dash.
If ign switch doesn't work, press button.

Mr. 68 is great.

 

I completely agree with the above. After I thought about it, I think he "MAY" have a different issue. If it were heat soak, then why does shorting it with a screwdriver correct it? If the solenoid were stuck due to heat, the screwdriver wouldn't fix that, it doesn't know if it's getting the 12V from the screwdriver, or the key switch.

I'm beginning to think he may have a heat related wiring issue, tough to diagnose over a forum, but should be checked out.

Like I said, I like the truck starters, they work much better IMHO. The Ford remote works well also, and is easier to work on if needed.

Also - whenever I had my starter apart, I always flipped over the copper washer at the base of the solenoid. It gets very worn from all of the arcing. I'm talking about the washer that shorts out "completes the circuit" the 2 contacts when the solenoid advances, putting power to the starter motor. Flipping the washer puts the worn side down, and exposes a fresh, brand new contact surface for the contacts.

 

No offense but A push button switch in a fully restored 25k invested 67 camaro i dont think so ......................!!!!!!!

Please see my cars in my garage on this portal ... they are not junkers to be putting any FORD CRAP OR CHINA MADE PARTS ON ..

 

I understand, Mr. Scoobie, I wouldn't either, but I wouldn't rule it out.
I would get a Thomas & Betts (USA made) button and install temporally under the dash out of sight until you find the problem as it is all 'bolt-in.'

With this said, I've never had a hot start problem with any GM designed starting system and this includes the DD '88 C3500 w/454 running 230°F on a 105°F day.
Have good large battery cables, min 1 AWG, good cable contacts on both ends, a well-charged battery - more than a three mile drive at 35 MPH after initial start if equipped with a mechanical regulator, a high-torque OE starter - the one with the copper extender between the solenoid and motor terminal, and an alternator belt correctly adjusted.

Let us know what you find. I would get rid of the aftermarket starter and get a AC Delco starter.
And you should have less than 1.2 volt difference between battery posts and Terminal S starting voltage.
Think of all the connections from the positive battery post to ign switch to solenoid and then from starter frame to negative battery post. Lots of traveling.

 

No need to get your panties in a wad, people are just spitballing. You don't like an idea someone throws out, you can just ignore it.

Kinda funny, no thanks for the good ideas, just whining over the ones you don't like.

Lots of NICE Mustangs out there with Ford solenoids on them.

The best option IMHO is what I originally said, go with a starter meant for a truck.